Collioure has attracted artists since the beginning of the 20th century when it was “discovered” by a group known as the Fauve artists. They were attracted not only by the subject matter but by the quality of the light. Henri Matisse and Andre Derain established their base in Collioure and were soon followed by the likes of Dufy and Picasso.
Until tourism had an impact, Collioure was a small fishing village on the Mediterranean coast close to the Spanish border. Like many quaint fishing villages, it grew once tourists began arriving in large numbers. Thankfully though it still retains much of its charm.
Collioure was not always French but was ruled over by the Kings of Mallorca until it eventually became French in 1659. The quaint little harbour is dominated by the Chateau Royale de Collioure, built by Vauban as a defensive measure against Spanish expansionism.
The artists, attracted by the clarity of the light and the ample subject matter, needed a place to stay. The Hotel des Templiers became their base and meeting place. A heady mix of fact and myth in local storytelling tells us that the poverty-stricken artists had little money to pay for their lodgings so they offered their paintings instead as a means of payment.
Whatever the truth behind this story there are original paintings and sketches by artists well known and unheard of adorning the walls of the cafe and bar. Until they were stolen there were even original sketches by Picasso hanging on the wall, now only copies are there.
According to the granddaughter of the owner at the time the paintings were gifts from the artists who became firm friends with the owner. Perhaps some were payment, but as she points out the business would not have survived if all the artists paid in paintings. Whatever the truth it is a wonderfully atmospheric place to enjoy a coffee.
A wander around Collioure’s steep and narrow streets away from the tourist crowds reveals a plethora of artist studios. It seems Collioure still attracts artists.
Many of these artists paint the same scenes the Fauve artists chose to put on canvas. The local tourist office has put up helpful signs at the locations where the artists set up their easels. These include a copy of the painting and a frame. The later is more for photographers wishing to convert the scene to several million pixels rather than brush strokes.
Wandering the harbour front, the streets and the three small bays you can see why the artists loved Collioure. It is so picturesque with colourful lateen boats bobbing in the harbour, a lighthouse converted into a church, a citadel and bougainvillaea bedecked lanes and courtyards.
I may not be a painter but I consider myself an artist with a camera as my tool of choice. I was continually framing and composing, pressing the shutter and taking photographs. Collioure is just so inspiring.
The Lure of Collioure is still alive and well among artists and photographers… and not a few tourists too. Certainly, the Lure of Collioure has called me back on more than one occasion and I will no doubt be returning again.
Do you have a special place in France that you like to return to again and again? Do tell us about it in the comments below.
Flybe, Europe’s largest regional airline, fly daily from my home city of Southampton to Lyon in France. Lyon is a city I have come to love and the fact that it is now connected by air without having to go through London and Paris means I will probably visit more often. Eurostar now have a service to Lyon from London without the need to change trains thus making Lyon more convenient to get to.
They say Paris is the heart of France and Lyon is the stomach. Lyon is awash with restaurants with many holding Michelin stars. Certainly Lyon is the gastro-capital of France. However, there is more to Lyon than food as you will see from the list below. They are not ranked but rather listed according to approximate geographical location.
1. The Fourviere Basilica
The Fourviere Basilica, perched high above the city on Fourviere Hill is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the patron saint of Lyon. It is fortress on the outside and palatial place of worship on the inside. The large terraced area around it makes a great viewpoint for looking across the city of Lyon and getting your bearings.
Directly below is Vieux Lyon with its narrow cobbled streets and old houses. Beyond and between the Rivers Saone and Rhone is Renaissance Lyon with long boulevards and large open squares. Beyond the two rivers is 19th and 20th century Lyon.
2. Gallo-Roman Archaeological Park
To the south and out of sight from the Fourviere Basilica is theGallo-Roman Archaeological park. This contains a large Roman theatre built around 15 BC that seated 11,000 spectators and a smaller second century odeon which was used mainly for music and recitations. Between the two and above the theatre is a well preserved Roman road lined with the ruins of shops and other buildings. Today both amphitheatres are used for performances during “Les Nuits de Fourviere”, a summer festival.
3. The Traboules of Vieux Lyon
In Vieux Lyon, which itself is worth exploring (see Five in the Fifth), are the traboules. Traboule comes from the latin words trans ambulare meaning “to cross”. The geography of the land meant the streets were constructed parallel to the river Saone. The traboules are passageways through houses connecting one street with another and were constructed intitially for people to fetch water and goods from the river. As the silk trade grew, the traboules were used to move goods around the city more easily.
Traboules run through the houses which gives you the feeling of entering a private, almost secretive world. Not all are open to the public and even those that are are difficult to find. The best way to visit them is to take a guided tour.
4. Croix Rousse
Between the River Saone and the River Rhone is an area known as the Presqu’île. Croix Rousse is an area in the northern part of the Presqu’île and was where the silk weavers moved to from Vieux Lyon. Croix Rousse has it’s own unique atmosphere and often feels like a village rather than part of a grand metropolis. It is much sought after neighbourhood and has a bohemian ambience.
Croix Rousse is best explored on foot. Steep passageways and steps take you through small parks and shady squares, gardens and along well kept boulevards. A good place to start is the Place de Sathonay, a shady neighbourhood square were the locals play pétanque. A good place to end is the Murs de Canuts – the silk workers mural.
5. Murals of Lyon
La Mur des Canuts is the largest of the Lyon’s murals. It’s very deceptive being painted in the trompe l’oeil style; and difficult to see where reality begins and ends. The mural is a study of Croix-Rousse itself and includes characteristics of the district such as the long flights of steps on the slopes of the hills on which it is built. Each time it is repainted it is also updated with the same characters growing older.
The most striking feature of this square is the great fountain of a female charioteer and wildly straining horses. This magnificent statue was rejected by Bordeaux before Lyon gladly accepted it. Its creator, Bartholdi, went on to create the Statue of Liberty.
Opposite the statue is the Museum of Fine Arts with several pieces by the sculptor Rodin. Some of his statues are displayed in the shady courtyard of the museum which is a great place to rest and cool off.
7. Place Bellecour
Place Bellecour is the largest square in Europe. In the centre of the square is a large statue of Louis XIV on horse back. The south of the square is filled with gardens, cafes and a children’s play area and is a great place to relax and people watch while taking a break from sightseeing or some retail therapy. The view across the square to the Fouvière Basilica is one of the classic views of Lyon.
Where the Saone and Rhone meet is the appropriately name Confluence district. This was the city’s docklands full of warehouses, wharfs and an SNCF shunting yard. Now, like many docklands areas in other European cities, it is being redeveloped. There is a large shopping complex, apartments and offices, marinas and other leisure facilities. There is some cutting edge architecture here too which includes a museum and a bright orange cube, has been christened by the Lyonnais “La Emmental” because it’s facade was designed with so many “holes” it resembles Swiss cheese.
The Musee des Confluences has become one of the most popular sites in Lyon. This Uber modern building sits on the confluence of the Rhone and the Saone and tells the story of our world. It presents a journey through time and across the globe to introduce the visitor to the world around them. There are also a continual rotation of temporary exhibitions too.
The old sugar warehouse, La Sucrière, is the main venue for the modern art Biennale de Lyon but serves as a space for art exhibitions at other times.
9. Parc de la Tête d’Or
Beyond the Rhone is the 19th and 20th century Lyon. Follow the river north and you reach the Parc de la Tête d’Or. At 117 hectares this is the largest urban park in France.
It is home to the Botanical Gardens with large glasshouses and four rose gardens. The botanical gardens are one of the largest in France and entry is free on weekdays.
The park also houses a zoo which in 2006 created an extensive Plaine Africaine where 130 species of native African animals roam free and together. The zoo is home to the rare Barbary lion; an animal extinct in the wild.
10. Tony Garnier Urban Museum
Tony Garnier was Lyon’s best known urban architect and created a housing project in the city for industrial workers in the 1920s. The museum that bears his name is in the district he helped create either side of the Boulevard des États-Unis. The museum is fairly small and shows much of his ideas in the exhibits including a reconstruction of a 1930s room.
However, his work is best seen in the urban landscape he created. Wander round or take a tour and you will see the murals on the ends of the apartment blocks of his ideas for an urban landscape. See the post Murals of Lyon (2) for more details.
The top ten list ends here but there will be some readers who will wonder why I have not included Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. I plan on following up this post with the top 10, in my view, places to enjoy the gastronomy of Lyon. For those who still think it should be included in the top ten places to see in the city I have included a brief note below.
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
If you love your food you will love Lyon. If you love Lyon you will love Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. This is Lyon’s gourmet covered market where all the Michelin chefs do their shopping; it is even named after the most influential of them all Paul Bocuse. Not only can you buy local ingredients but also products made locally such as cheeses, macaroons, quinelles and desserts that are works of art.
Have you visited Lyon? Are any of your favourite places to visit missing from this list? Do share with us your top Lyon spots in the comments below.
This article first appeared on www.travelunpacked.co.uk, the sister blog of www.franceunpacked.co.uk. Several of the links will take you to the Travel Unpacked website
On 1st May this year Eurostar launched a direct no-train-change service to Lyon, Avignon and Marseille from London. France will become even more accessible by high speed trains with out the changes at Lille or Paris. Even without the new service France was already very accessible by train using both the TGV and more regional SNCF trains.
The mountains, the coasts, the chateaux, the wine producing areas, the WW1 battlefields and the cities are all connected by train. In this post I look at six cities served by trains that I have visited. There are of course more and over the time I will cover more cities easily reached by train.
We’ll start with my top French city.
They say that if Paris is the heart of France then Lyon is its stomach. It certainly is a gastronomic destination and you cannot visit Lyon without sampling some of its many restaurants from the simple fayre served good in the bouchons to the Michelin starred restaurants.
Wandering around Old Lyon exploring the hidden passages or traboules is a great way to spend an afternoon. There are numerous murals right across Lyon and searching them out is a great way to explore the city. Lyon surprises; it has plenty of wide open squares and parkland and a thriving cultural scene, both classic and contemporary. It is a destination in its own right and not just a stop on the route south.
Heading south from Lyon on the TGV and we eventually reach the Cote d’Azur
Swanky classic hotels to stay in, the Promenade des Anglais to wander and be seen and great places to eat are all part of the stereotypical image of Nice. Always popular with artists Nice has museums devoted to Matisse, Marc Chagall and modern and contemporary art. For those wanting to explore a little more Vieux Nice is the place to wander. Wandering up to the chateau, and area of parkland and ruins noted for its extensive views, takes you through narrow cobbled streets with great little cafes, boutiques and shops and restaurants serving and selling the olives that bear the city’s name. The Flower Market is one of the best known in France and is best visited early in the morning when the flowers are at their best and most numerous.
Still on the eastern side of France is…
Strasbourg is well-known for being the headquarters of a number of European institutions, most notably the European Parliament and the European Court of Human Rights. It is also famous for its historic centre on the Grande Île with the half timbered houses typical of Alsace region of France and its towering cathedral. The district known as Petite France is home to some of the prettiest and most photogenic narrow cobbled streets especially from spring onwards when the half-timbered houses are bedecked with flowers. A great deal of Strasbourg is pedestrianised and is easily explored on foot or by bike.
In the south-west of France there are more cities to visit. First up is a city known more for its wine than anything else.
The region around Bordeaux is famous for its wines and indeed the port on the River Garonne grew rich on the wine trade. Much of the city’s architecture reflects this. The Grand Theatre du Bordeaux is an indication that the arts found wealthy patrons. The ornate and magnificent Fontaine des Girondins is also an indication of the wealth enjoyed by Bordeaux. There are several wide open squares and sweeping boulevards to explore as well as smaller older streets with unique boutiques and shops.
Bordeaux may have made its name on the back of the wine trade but the port also traded in other goods, mostly from the Americas and the Caribbean. Cocoa was imported in large quantities and as a result confectioners began making chocolate. Bordeaux is a chocoholics paradise with more chocolatiers per square kilometre than anywhere else in France. The three best are within a short walk of each other.
Not far south of Bordeaux is the elegant resort of…
The resort of Biarritz was a favourite with the royal families of Europe at the end of the 19th century. Napoleon built a palace here for his wife Eugenie which is now the grand Hotel du Palais. Biarritz is at the southern end of France’s long Atlantic coast where the Pyrenees begin to dip their feet into the sea. Its many beaches, casinos and the bracing sea air are what attracted the nobility a century ago and still appeal today. The clientele may have changed but Biarritz still offers the feel of elegance by-the-sea and is much more laid back alternative to the Mediterranean cities currently in vogue.
Among the places to visit is the wonderful chocolate museum. Not only does it chart the history of chocolate and its introduction to French soil in nearby Bayonne by expelled Spanish Jews but also displays numerous chocolate sculptures. On the subject of chocolate it is worth sampling the chocolate drink Empress Eugenie loved; a slightly spicy thick hot chocolate served in the sumptuous surrounds of the lounge in the Hotel du Palais.
Head west from Paris and you will travel along the Loire Valley. The next city is the gateway to Chateaux country.
Tours is often seen as the gateway to the chateaux of the Loire Valley and most visitors pass quickly through. It is a city worth visiting in its own right. The city has a well preserved historic centre with half-timbered houses on the Place Plumereau with plenty of cafes to relax and soak up the atmosphere. Also in the centre are the cathedral, the Basilica and Tours own 11th Century chateaux. There are a number of gardens to visit including the Botanical Gardens and among the many summer markets on the banks of the Loire is a flower market. A couple of museums worth visiting are the unique Museum of Journeymen and the Musee des Beaux-Arts.
These are just a few of the cities readily accessible by train in France and with Eurostar now connecting the UK to both northern and southern France these and other cities have become accessible in just a few hours from London or Paris. Over time I will be looking at other train-accessible cities of France.
Have you travelled by train in France? What were your experiences? Do share them in the comments below.
Lyon is a city I passed through several times either on the A6 Autoroute heading south or on a train heading towards the Mediterranean coast. I have used its airport as well when heading to other parts of Rhone-Alpes. Such contact with Lyon gave the false impression it was a city of dreariness and heavy industry. It was time therefore to have more than a fleeting glimpse of the city.
I have already explored Vieux Lyon on the west bank of the Saone in a previous post on France Unpacked’s sister website Travel Unpacked. In this post I will explore that part of Lyon between it’s two great rivers the Saone and the Rhone; an area known as the Presqu’île. It is quite a compact area and is where the Lyonnais come to shop, eat and be entertained. Most of it can be explored on foot. However, all the city’s transport systems pass through or terminate in the Presqu’île so it is easy to get around.
The Place des Terreaux is a good place to start as it is the de facto transport hub both above and below ground. The most striking feature of this square is, for me, the great fountain of a female charioteer and wildly straining horses. Rejected by Bordeaux this fountain was eagerly accepted by Lyon. Its creator, Batholdi, later went on to create the Statue of Liberty.
The fountain faces the Museum of Fine Arts which is housed in the Palais St Pierre. The courtyard is a cool secluded place where sculptures are displayed, some of which are by the sculptor Rodin. The Hôtel de Ville with its elegant 17th century facade also overlooks the square and its many cafes.
The Opera on Place de la Comédie behind Hôtel de Ville was built in 1826 but was completely redesigned in the 1990s. Externally the facades were left pretty much intact but a glass vaulted roof was added giving it, in my opinion, the appearance of a London mainline railway station. Contemporary sculptures and fountains fill the squares around it.
Lyon is twinned with Birmingham and the two cities share a contemporary and controversially designed department store. In Birmingham the store is covered with silver discs and in Lyon it is reflective glass. Both modern structures are surrounded by older buildings but in Lyon at least these are reflected in the facade.
Rue Mercière is the only significant Renaissance remains in the Presqu’île. There are a few traboules or secret passageways here connecting it to the bank of the River Saone. Restaurants, bistros and cafes line the street. Le Bistrot de Lyon serves great food and is worth stopping at for the breathtaking interior. At the end of Rue Mercière is Place Jacobin with its newly renovated fountain depicting four Lyonnais artists: painter Hippolyte Flandrin, engraver Gérard Audran, sculptor Guillaume Coustou and architect Philibert Delorme.
Place Bellecour is the largest square in Europe. In the centre of the square is a large statue of Louis XIV on horse back. The view across the square to the Fouvière Basilica is one of the classic views of Lyon. The south of the square is filled with gardens, cafes and a children’s play area. In one corner is a bell tower, all that remains of the Hôpital de la Charité which was demolished in 1932.
Croix Rousse is the area in the north of the peninsula. This was where the silk weavers moved to from Vieux Lyon. Some of the features such as the traboules they brought with them. The houses they built had rooms with high ceilings that could accommodate the new weaving machines. Croix Rousse has it’s own unique ambience and often feels like a village than part of a bustling metropolis.
Being built on a hill means you get a good view of the layout of the city of Lyon. Although Croix Rousse can be reached by metro it is better to explore the steep passageways and steps that take you through small parks and shady squares on foot. A good place to start is the Place de Sathonay, a shady neighbourhood square were the locals play pétanque. A good place to end is the Murs de Canuts – the silk workers mural. This is the largest of Lyon’s famous murals. It’s very deceptive being painted in the trompe l’oeil style; and difficult to see where reality begins and ends.
Where the Saone and Rhone meet is the appropriately name Confluence district. This was Lyon’s docklands full of warehouses, wharfs and SNCF work yards. Now, like many docklands areas, it is being redeveloped with large shopping malls, apartments and offices, marinas and other leisure facilities. One of the more recent buildings, a bright orange cube, has been christened by the Lyonnais “La Emmental” because it’s facade was designed with so many “holes” it resembles Swiss cheese.
The old sugar warehouse, La Sucrière, is the main venue for Lyon’s modern art Biennale de Lyon but serves as a space for art exhibitions during time when the Biennale is not in residence. The Confluence area is still under development and is the best place to go to see some of Lyon’s modern, cutting edge architecture.
Lyon’s two rivers have shaped its history and development as a city. The natural barriers of the river mean much of the elegance of Lyon is contained in a very walkable area. My visit to Lyon changed my perception of a city from one of heavy industry to one of grace and beauty.
Have you visited Lyon? What did you think of the city? Let us know in the comments below.
Declaration: I visited Lyon as guest of the Lyon Tourist Office and Convention Bureau. However, as always I maintain full editorial control over the content and my opinions, positive or negative are my own.
I had a few hours. It was late summer; almost autumn. It was a glorious day and I was in Paris. I didn’t want to dive underground, taking the Metro to see some of the city’s iconic sights; the day was too good for that. I wanted to stroll around the neighbourhood and discover some of the lesser known places.
Loaded on to my iPad was the Insight Guide Paris which has a rather handy feature that gives you the 10 nearest sights to your location. It immediately detected that I was just off Place Monge in the Fifth Arrondissement and pinpointed 10 places closest to me. One was a hotel, another a bowling centre so I eliminated those. Of the remaining eight these are the Five in the Fifth I chose.
Mosquée de Paris
This mosque was built in the Moorish style in 1922 to commemorate the part North African troops from the french colonies played in World War 1. The mosque is open to visitors with regular tours. A large patio is reminiscent of the Alhambrra in Granada with its fountains and planting. It’s a real haven of peace from the bustle of Paris. Around the far side from the patio is a public Turkish bath and a delightful shaded cafe serving some wonderful North African sweet pastries.
Jardin des Plantes
Across the road from the mosque’s cafe is one of the entrance’s to the Jardin des Plantes. The garden was originally used to supply medicinal herbs to treat the family of Louis XIII. The garden was redesigned, added to and expanded during the 18thcentury. A maze amphitheatre a and display galleries were all added; the latter becoming the Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle. After the Revolution a small zoo was added which remains today. The gardens themselves are now used to display planting schemes and extend all the way to the Seine.
This street is all that remains of the Roman road that led to Lutèce, town that later grew into the Paris we know today. Its cobbled streets are closed to traffic and as a result the food shops and cafes spill out onto the street. Market days the street is full of stalls and is a delight of sights, sounds and smells
Arènes de Lutèce
In a small park north of Place Monge I suddenly came across a Roman amphitheatre. Discovered during the construction of Rue Monge it solved the mystery as to why the sourrounding neighbourhood had always been referred to as les Arènes. The amphitheatre held upto 15,000 spectators and was used for both combat and theatrical productions.
The dome of the Panthéon is an easily recognisable landmark in the Fifth. It was modelled on St Peter’s in Rome and is consecrated to the patron saint of Paris, Ste Geneviève. Soon after its completion in 1791 the authorities made it the last resting place of leading revolutionaries. Later other prominent French citizens were interred here. Among the tombs are those of Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Emile Zola and the Curies.
Although I chose five and intended to visit them all time ran out so the Pantheon only got a cursory glance. Exploring a neighbourhood on foot can turn up some delights that would otherwise be missed in the rush to see all main tourist sights Paris has to offer. A recent blog I read likened it to seeing Paris as a piece of chamber music rather than a grand operatic production. I totally agree with that sentiment after visiting Five in the Fifth.
I know there are other sights in the Fifth; The Sorbonne, Musée National du Moyen Âge, St Etienne du Mont and of course the booksellers along the Left Bank. What do you think? Are these the five you would choose?
The Insight Guide Paris mentioned above is available from the App Store
It had not been our intention to visit Amiens in Picardy but, due to a minor mix up with accommodation, we found ourselves with a hotel in the shadow of its impressive cathedral and several hours of exploring time. Not being the kind of people to sit and kill time we decided to explore as much as we could.
You cannot visit Amiens without visiting the cathedral. Similar to Notre Dame in Paris it is almost twice the size and is the largest cathedral by volume in France. It is also considered to be the finest and purest example of Gothic architecture. There is certainly harmony in its architecture.
The cathedral is renown for the quality of the sculptures and intricate tracery covering the west facade. Inside the nave reaches a height of 42m making it the highest complete cathedral in France. The incomplete Beauvais cathedral has a taller nave.
A couple of gruesome statues commemorate the original reason for building the cathedral; to house the head of John the Baptist. This relic was part of the loot from the Fourth Crusade that ended up in Amiens.
Such is the importance of Amiens cathedral architecturally that it has been placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
There are enough things to see and do to occupy at least two days but we only had a few hours. Should we visit the house of Jules Verne or the Picardy Museum? The floating gardens or “hortillonages” of the marshlands of the Somme were another option. In the end we decided to wander serendipitously through one of the several “quartiers” that make up Amiens.
Medieval St-Leu has many older wooden and brick houses built along its many drainage canals. It is popular with Amien’s young population and is full of cafes and restaurants. Many of them are along Quai Belu and have great views of the cathedral but it is also worth wandering the other streets of the “quartier” seeking out the Puppet Theatre.
We stopped for a lunch here of Picardy potatoes smothered in chicken, cheese and sauce looking over the canal towards the Cathedral. After lunch we wandered back through the town, discovering as we did that Amiens is also a town of flowers. There are colourful beds and baskets of blooms everywhere, even in September when we were there.
We were reluctant to leave having discovered that Amiens is more than a few exits on the A16 autoroute from Paris to Calais and are already planning a longer stopover on our next visit to France.
Have you been to Amiens? Is there anywhere I should see on my next visit? If there is I’d love to hear from you.
Getting there: Amiens is approximately 1.5hrs from Calais which is served by . It is roughly the same distance from Paris with excellent road and rail links. For flights to Paris visit www.skyscanner.net